Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Cycling Hokitika Harihari Franz Josef Fox Glacier Paringa Lake Haast Makarora Wanaka


October 11th Hokitika – Harihari 77km

Forecast was bad and we woke to heavy rain.  We only decided we were going at 9am and by 9.30 we were off to town to get some gloves.  I thought latex gloves under the cycling gloves would keep our hands warm and dry.  They worked but got a bit sweaty. The wind was strong and directly behind us and even the rain had eased off.  The road, mainly flat, passed through pastures full of just weaned calves not bigger than a great danes.  Every time they saw us coming they would run to the fence I guess expecting food.  We stopped at Ross in an interesting café/bar.  It was done out in western style with lots of wood, saddles and cowboy hats for decoration.  In one of the rooms sat a lovely old triumph, I had to take a couple of pictures!

Back out in the rain we continued to Harihari passing a gold mine just out of Ross, the biggest nugget in New Zealand came from here and weighed over 2kg. We were soon into the rain forest that lived up to its name, not heavy rain but fine and constant.  We planned to stop at the Bushman’s Centre for lunch , as we entered nobody greeted us just looked down their noses, then eventually came over and said we were too wet to sit down as the seats were covered in possum fur which would take a long time to dry out.  We could try putting newspaper down or we could sit outside.  Hmm sit outside after 2 hours of riding in the rain, they could kiss my A***.  We found a gateway to stop and drink our flask of soup and rode on.  By the time we hit Harihari we were soaked!  Although we both decided that rain and a tailwind is better than a strong headwind any day, it had been any easy ride.

There were 3 options to stay, the backpackers said no vacancies but looked closed, and the pub had rooms but no kitchen and then the Flaxbush Motel which was perfect.  The most expensive stay at $65 but our own bathroom was a treat and also made a great drying room.


October 12th Harihari – Franz Josef 66km

A dry morning and a climb to start the day.  Not too long or steep but no tailwind today either so a bit slower.  After the descent we came to Whataroa.  A little village with a café and a park with a covered seating area so our food first in the park then a look in the Greenstone Gallery next to it (I bought a nice piece and managed to get a deal by looking broke and wet I guess).  Next came a hot chocolate in the café before continuing to Franz.

Franz is a full on tourist town due to the glacier 5km south.  Backpackers, hotels and campsites make up most of the buildings along with a couple of bars and booking offices for quad bikes, sky diving, glacier guides, heli rides etc etc etc.  We stayed in the YHA taking advantage of the cycling discount, had dinner and watched a couple of dvds.

October 13th Franz Josef

We had planned to stay here 2 nights so we could go to the glacier.  We cycled the 5km to the car park then walked the 1.5hr round trip.  Very impressive, I would say the best example I have seen but a shame you can’t hike on it without a guide.

After lunch we soaked in the hot pools, a little disappointed as just 3 pools with no bubbles, jets or anything much.  Being set in the rain forest made for a relaxing couple of hours though.  Tomorrow we have just over 20km to Fox glacier but 3 reasonable climbs then the next day 70ish km to Paringa Lake.  Neither place has much in the way of shops so we shopped for 3 days food to be on the safe side.


 Yes I Know I need my hair cut :-)


October 14th Franz Josef – Fox Glacier 26km

Left at 10am after chatting to 3 guys are cycling supported, no bags on road bikes must be nice but they are doing 140km a day.  Our easy day had three steep climbs, the last had a sign warning cars of the gradient! The three guys drove past waving encouragement.   We arrived in Fox at 12pm.  Accommodation is expensive here $60 for a cabin (Fox Glacier Holiday Park and Motel) but it is large and the kitchen and showers are all new.  Took the cycle track through the rain forest to the glacier, nice ride.  I thought Franz glacier more impressive.  The lady working at the campsite had just come back from walking some of the peaks trail in the US and had been to many of the same spots as us.

Back to a normal length day tomorrow 75km and then Wales France, come on the Welsh!





October 15th Fox Glacier – Paringa Lake 72km

Great days ride, a mixture of gentle downhill and tailwind meant 3 hours 20 ride time which must be close to our fastest average speed so far.  Rainforest lined the road most of the way however we hit the coast at Bruce Bay so we stopped for a snack.  While we drank tea and coffee the guys we met in Franz arrived and stopped for a chat.  They had tiny stem bags carrying snacks and a phone on their carbon fibre road bikes.  They said they ride 4.5 hours a day which is similar to a lot of our days but they cover a much greater distance.  We stopped for lunch at a salmon farm but no fish for us purely cake!

We arrived a Paringa Lake Lodge just before it rained but decided to camp as a cabin cost $85 and $24 to camp.  This site seemed more aimed at fishing and hunting parties than tourists but everybody as usual was friendly although there were swarms of sand flies.  There were 2 groups of men, both fishing and hunting on or around the lake next to the site.  Seems cruising around the lake looking for deer at the waters edge then shooting them is the stalking they did but nobody had shot one whilst we were there.  In fact I got the idea that they weren’t 100% up to speed on the hunting side as they didn’t know what distance their rifles were zeroed at but they were nice guys and I guess the way they relaxed.  The host Kevin was a good old boy as well and lit a fire in an old barrel which we all stood round and drank beer.

We watched the rugby that night, enough said about that but I was made a whitebait patte which was really good, the highlight of the night.



October 16th Paringa Lake – Haast 55km

A nice sunny day for a change, the ride had several short steep climbs which slowed the speed down. It took 3 hours 11 to cover 55km.  We stopped at Knights Point viewing spot for a snack and had lunch in Haast, fish and chips for me!  Haast Motor Park charge $32 to camp or $55 for a double room so we went for the room.  This was mainly down to the fact there is a severe weather warning for tomorrow and we have a long day uphill right in the middle of it!  We are aiming to be on the road at 8am so we will see if everything goes as planned.  The place is really nice and seems new, it looks like it is a converted industrial building.  We dried the tent on the washing line and repacked it, loaded the trailer so in the morning it’s just panniers on and go.  The only downside about Haast is the price of the groceries, 2 carrier bags of shopping cost $69! That’s only 1.5 days food but with only one shop for at least 100km in any direction I guess you can charge what you want.


I bought a sneaky 6 pack for the game tonight, come on the All Blacks!! J

October 17th Haast – Makarora 82km

Well a decent match last night for a change, surely they can beat the French.  We were on the road at 7.47am which must be a record!  It was bright and sunny although we rode into a cold headwind for an hour.   At 50km the road went up so steep it is all I could do to push the pedals round, I had to get out of the saddle and stopped 3 times in 2km!  I thought if it carries on like this I won’t make it, then I saw a sign warning of extreme gradient for cars going down what we had just cycled up so I hoped it would get easier.  I kept expecting the road to climb steeper as we were cruising along with only a gradual uphill trend but by surprise we reached a sign letting us know we had reached the top.  A result for sure, 6km sooner than the sign at Haast had predicted and nothing like the climb described in the guide book.

The downhill had the occasional up but only for short sections, as the valley widened 40kph was possible reaching Makarora in a total ride time of 5 hours.  We had lunch in the unmanned visitors center (a flask of soup) then hot chocolate and cake in the café.  The café here is also the shop, petrol station and motel!  The cabin for the night cost $70 but with the severe weather warning still in place there was no way we were camping.

As we only had pasta and sauce, no veg or anything else, we ate that then went to the café for chicken and chips for me and veggies for Maria followed by more cake and hot chocolate!

It is now peeing down, 65km tomorrow doesn’t fill me with joy but there is nothing to do here so we will go regardless of the weather.


October 18th Makarora – Wanaka 66km

Well the forecast was bang on, we woke to rain and it continued all day.  We had on all of our wet weather gear yet we were cold and damp within an hour.  The headwind slowed the speed down around Lake Wanaka, making the climbs on the constantly undulating road harder than normal.  The views, although partially obscured by cloud were spectacular, I wish I could share them with you but stopping to take a photo was never on the cards.

We trudged on until we reached The Neck, the highest point at 405m and where you leave Lake Wanaka for Lake Hawea.  Now we felt the full force of the south westerly gale force wind.  The rain stung our faces and pedaling hard to make progress even downhill was required.

Luckily we came to a small shelter on the side of the road.  It looked like an old bus shelter but offered great protection from the wind and rain.  A flask of soup soon warmed us up whilst we read the graffiti left by travelers from years gone by, the earliest was 1981 and none had anything positive to say about this isolated shelter.

Once back out on the road the warmth soon disappeared, our hands feeling the coldest.  I struggled into the headwind along this beautiful lake, each climb seemed worse than the last.  At 50km we were saved by a café, we gorged ourselves on cake and an all day breakfast fro me, quiche for Maria.  !.5 hours we stayed before we ventured back into the rain no leaving the lake for an easier cross country ride.

16km later we rolled into Wanaka, cold and wet we headed straight for the YHA got a great double room which shared a kitchen and bathroom with only 1 other room which by chance was empty.  Showered and changed we went for food at a Japanese restaurant then a DVD and bed.
The hardest day so far and only 66km. 

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